We are working on our ball python caresheet and will publish it here soon.
There are already an incredible amount of bearded dragon care sheets out on the web (at least one different one for almost every breeder and hobby site) and we would rather direct you to the best rather than just add one more. Please visit Dr. Tosney's Bearded Dragon Care Sheet. Dr. Tosney is currently the chair of the Biology Department at the University of Miami. This care sheet is extremely detailed and addresses all categories of bearded dragon husbandry.
It is also highly recommended to obtain a copy of The Bearded Dragon Manual by Philippe de Vosjoli and Robert Mailloux. This book covers everything from routine care, to breeding, to causes and treatment of medical problems. It can be found on Amazon for approximately $10 and is well worth it. Between Dr. Toseny's care sheet, The Bearded Dragon Manual, and your dragon's lifetime support line (us), any questions that arise should be well answered.
We highly recommend purchasing supplies from Beautiful Dragons Reptile Rescue. Their products have very good prices and the best quality. Also, every purchase from this store helps support their reptile rescue which is a great cause!
Part of the value of a breeder's care sheet is the information it gives the prospective buyer as to how the dragons are raised in regards to food and lighting. Since we have elected to provide a link to Dr. Tosney's care sheet instead of creating our own, we will briefly list what we use on our own dragons and available babies so you are informed.
Lighting: Incandescent light bulbs and 10.0 or 8.0 UVB bulbs (5.0 bulbs for silkbacks and some translucents). We use an infrared thermometer to check that all basking spots are at the appropriate temperature. We recommend using ceramic light fixtures, not the plastic ones, for fire safety.
Water: All adult dragons have water bowels and weekly baths. All dragons (newborn through adult) get sprayed daily.
Food: We firmly believe in giving a variety of food sources and feed crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and superworms to our adults and juveniles. We feed primarily crickets to young hatchlings as the jumping movements trigger a better feeding response and the exo-skeleton is easier to digest than dubias. Supplements include calcium powders with and without D3 and Miner-All. Gravid females are also sparingly fed pinky mice and rats. All dragons get a variety of organic leafy greens and veggies. Our hatchlings are provided with daily greens starting the day they are removed from the incubator which provides them with a strong foundation for regularly eating greens once they arrive in your home.
We believe Dubias are the one of the best foods and strongly encourage dragon owners to start their own colony for a constant, quality food source for their pet. Until recently, our adults and juveniles were primarily fed dubias but unfortunately, we had to remove our colony to a strong allergic reaction.